The Mayflower bar (photo by me)
In its 472-year tenure, the site of The Mayflower has worn many hats: chiefly, it has been a pub—first called 'The Shippe', then later 'The Spread Eagle'—but also an erstwhile maritime post office. As a matter of fact, The Mayflower is, to this day, the only London pub licensed to sell English and American postage stamps. Its main claim to fame, however, lies in its ties to the Pilgrim Fathers, whose frugal captain, one Christopher Jones, was said to have moored there in order to avoid paying dock fees.
It was from this convenient location, then, that sixty-five passengers boarded The Mayflower in the first—and decidedly least dangerous—stage of their journey to North America. Today, descendants of those fortunate enough to survive this treacherous mid-Atlantic passage are invited to sign the ‘Descendants Book’ as they peruse framed documents written by their forebears, including instructions for next of kin.
It is, in part, on account of these curiosities that customers come in droves to Rotherhithe’s longtime watering hole, purportedly the Thames’ oldest pub. Though I discovered the pub by chance, I couldn’t help but feel moved by its aura of historical significance. Granted, my paternal ancestors were not on board The Mayflower, but they arrived not long after. Included in this line was the brewer, military officer, and calligrapher Timothy Matlack, who famously inscribed the original United States Declaration of Independence. (By ‘famously’, I mean that his role in Founding Fatherhood was a major plot point of the seminal classic National Treasure 2.)
"There is enough for everyone's need..." (photo by me)
Given Matlack’s apparent passion for beer, which he brewed and bottled near Independence Hall in Philadelphia, I can’t help but think he would approve of The Mayflower, though I’m sure he would be disappointed to find out that I had immigrated to a country he fought so hard to gain independence from. Small mercies–I inherited his good penmanship. And though letters to kings are now typed on computers (what a strange juxtaposition), the skill still has its uses.
Just look at the lettering hand-painted on The Mayflower’s deep tawny timbre. In one booth, for example, patrons can find the following quotation, written in a charmingly askew serif: “There is enough for everyone’s need, but not enough for everyone’s greed.” (Gandhi, of course.) Another bears the instruction: “Quaff ale, sip wine, dine pleasantly.”
Patrons, by all accounts, seem more than happy to oblige. Downstairs, and on the outdoor patio, is where you will find the ale-quaffing, and rather raucously so. The upstairs restaurant, meanwhile, is more of a pleasant dining/wine-sipping sort of place. What unites both floors is a cohesively cluttered interior design scheme. With combed plastered walls that wear a venerable garnet red, crowded with ornately framed paintings, the milieu is beautiful, moody, and intricately quirky. Doing much to convey these qualities are the miscellanea of chachkas that can be found on every surface that is not specifically designated for eating.
The bric-à-brac of The Mayflower (photo by me)
On the menu is standard British fare: pie and mash, fish and chips, sticky toffee pudding, and so on. For the foodies, there are a few creative dishes, too, like the prawn and chorizo linguine, or the goat cheese and butternut squash ravioli. Vegan options are notably present too.
Though I’m not much of a drinker–a fatal flaw for a pub enthusiast, I know–I have enjoyed the food every time I’ve dined there. Worth noting is the fact that it’s one of the few public houses in London that doesn’t have a Greene King menu. (See other classic pubs, like The Prospect of Whitby and The George Inn, who cook more or less the same dishes, to varying success.)
The Mayflower's fish and chips (photo by me)
All in all, The Mayflower is one of the very best pubs in London. True to its history, it’s a versatile setting, perfect for impressing visiting friends and family, or just a bit of a catch-up with friends. From its cosy, nostalgic decor to its well-balanced menu, there’s plenty to write home about–and, if need be, postage to do so. ◈
The exterior of The Mayflower (photo by me)
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